When our friends Audrey and Ryan told us that they had plans to take four months off work, buy a catamaran and sail around the Greek Islands we were amazed. When they invited us to share part of their journey we knew we would have to get ourselves to Greece no matter what.
Getting to Greece from Albania was harder than we imagined. I won’t go into all the details as it would probably take up three blog posts. Let’s just say, our border crossing involved:
1) a post-it with the words “please take us to the border” written in Albanian by our hostel owner,
2) nervously hitching a ride with a harmless but scary looking man in an old beat-up car,
3) almost being deported when the Greek border police miscalculated our time already spent in the Schengen area
4) and a 110 euro cab ride.
But somehow we made it to the island of Lefkada (Lefkas), only a couple of hours late and a bit shaky, where Audrey and Ryan were waiting for us with chilled beers and big smiles.
The catamaran, Sibia AKA Salty Sea Dog, was fantastic. Audrey and Ryan bought it fully furnished from a Slovenian family who lived on it for years.
It was surprisingly spacious. Adam and I had one of the four small but very cosy cabins to ourselves which made us feel at home -even if it was only temporary.
That first night we explored the old town which was beautiful at night and caught up on each other’s adventures. We were so stoked to be with friends finally after 6 months of it just being the two of us. Audrey and Ryan were wonderful hosts making everything so easy for us and explaining the sailing plan for the week ahead. The idea was to head to Paxos for a few days before moving on to Corfu for another few days and then doubling back to Lefkada where we would have to say goodbye. I liked the sound of not packing too many places into our short time -it meant that we could relax into the Greek sailing way of life.
The only thing that made us a little nervous is the fact that Adam gets terrible motion sickness. We had stocked up on sea-sickness tablets in Albania but we weren’t sure how he would go for 10 days spending most of his time on the water.
The first day we were up early and sailed to the small bay, Monganissi. The weather started out quite overcast in the morning and the wind was quite low meaning that we had to motor most of the way. But once it picked up Audrey and Ryan got out the spinnaker and we had fun putting it up and using it to catch the light wind.
Adam was doing okay with his sea-sickness and when we got to Monganissi we celebrated with an afternoon swim and some cold beers.
Lakka was our destination the next day. My god what a beautiful part of the world – the colour of the water blew us away.
The place was swarming with mono-hulls parked up in the bay but because we were in a catamaran we glided past and tied ourselves to a small jetty in a shallower and less busy area.
Adam and I were starting to learn the ropes a little and were able to help out in small ways which was both satisfying and fun.
The weather was absolutely crazy the next day on our way to Corfu.
The wind had picked up and we were watching storms form on the mainland. The others were busy putting up the sails to make the most of wind and we were flying along when I saw something weird happening to the clouds in the storm. It looked like it was forming a tornado or something. I ran to the back of the boats and pointed it out to the others and by that time it had connected with the water and was a full blown water spout. We couldn’t believe our eyes, I think Adam and I would have felt more nervous if Ryan hadn’t started laughing (nervously -he told us later) and if Audrey’s first reaction wasn’t to run and grab the camera. I joined in and we felt like storm chasers.
We were scared for the boats that were really close to it but after about 15 minutes it disappeared into thin air. Lucky I have the photos to prove it existed. After that, the weather gave us a miraculous break for a couple of hours. So we stopped up at a beautiful anchorage in the middle of the ocean called Ak Levkimmis for a couple of hours and swam and ate fresh salad for lunch before heading on. The photos do not do the water clarity justice.
We anchored at Petriti that night and a couple of giant storms hit pushing some of the other boats around the bay. None of us got much sleep that night except for Adam who woke up puzzled at the wet deck asking if it had rained – he’d slept through the whole thing.
Our first three days on the boat were magic with virtually no sea-sickness on Adam’s behalf. It was easy to see how this lifestyle could become addictive. It was fascinating to watch Audrey and Ryan sailing the boat, working together like a well-oiled machine.
We were also struck by how self-sufficient they were. Apart from needing to fuel up and refill water storage they had everything they needed right there on the catamaran. Needless to say, we were about 2 days in when Adam floated the idea that we might one day buy a boat and do the same thing. Tempting, very tempting.